The Stude engine was introduced in '51, so they didn't have much in the way of V-8 engines to choose from-Caddy and Olds built V-8's in '49, Chrysler didn't bring out the Hemi until 51, and Ford didn't have an OHV engine until, what? '52? Pretty much everyone else was later than '51. On cheap cranksets you can not separate chainrings, and in this case youll need to replace the whole. This is to provide a better flexibility in chainring selection: different materials, shapes and tooth numbers. Secure to 12 to 15 Nm (88 to 132 inch-lbs). Tighten the pinch bolts, alternating between them every half-turn to ensure both are fully and evenly tight. The crank cap pulls the arm toward the bearing. If you are buying crankset separately, chainrings are not included. Apply grease or anti-seize to threads of crank cap and gently thread into spindle. Older or lower end three-piece cranks use a bottom bracket that includes the axle and are threaded into the frame, the crank arms fit into a square or splined taper on the end of the axle. All you need is a large adjustable wrench and a screwdriver. One-piece cranks are the easiest type to service, and require no special tools. One-piece cranks fit only the unthreaded shells 51.3 mm (2.02') in diameter. I suspect it is more likely that Stude simply designed their engine to accept parts and accessories that were in mass-production already, rather than buying the engine design itself. Cranksets come in parts: cranks, bottom bracket and chainrings. The cranks need to have the same chainline, but MTB triple cranks almost always used 47.5-50mm so they should be compatible in that regard. Bicycle bottom bracket (crank hanger) shells fall, in general, into two groups, threaded and threadless. Wouldn't surprise me that there is interchangability between Stude and Caddy. I did hear from an un-reliable source (the description in an eBay auction!!!) that the Stude intake manifold would interchange with a Caddy of the same vintage with minor modification. The SAE paper for the Stude engine (510203) does not mention a Cadillac connection, but I suppose they would tend to keep that under wraps as a matter of corporate pride. The newer Caddy is a thinwall, light weight casting, and the Packard.isn't. My LBS had a Shimano cartridge in stock that fit my cranks so thats the one I went with. Theres a tapered spindle that your cranks screw onto. No, I don't expect any similarity between the Packard & the Caddy. Those two new cups are threaded on their inside and you screw in a cartridge that holds the sealed bearings. I guess that was pretty common for engines designed in the late '40's and very early '50's. It has a clutch housing cast into the block which would add a huge amount of weight. Five bolts around each cylinder like a small block Chevy-or perhaps an early Olds-not sure about that. The timing chain area is also remarkably similar to Olds. In different, 3 piece cranks come with sealed bearings protected from. The Packard has the distributor in the back of the block, very similar to Olds. One-piece cranks have non-sealed bottom bracket bearings that get contaminated easily. The SAE paper (560020) presented in '55 details the engine construction, and states that the bore centers are 5". The washers are metal and are relocated under the thread’s bolt and nuts.Yes, I'm referring to the Packard (which was then bought out by Stude) 352. Use a bolt or a spanner tool to remove and loosen the washers. You can also pry the threads out or remove them by slowly threading the bolt, depending on the crank arm type of your bicycle. How do you remove a crank from a mountain bike without a puller?
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